I’m now in Yangon, Myanmar, once known as Rangoon, Burma, and it’s a completely different country from Thailand or Cambodia. As soon as we left the airport we were greeted by the cloudy and oppressively humid weather. As we took our taxi to the city center we realized how isolated this country is. The streets are filled with old jalopy cars that choke the air with black exhaust, since economic sanctions limit trade with other countries. Lots of people walk the streets, the men mostly wearing longyis which look like a sheet wrapped around the waste, and women wearing something similar. No one has a poncho here but everyone carries around an umbrella both for the sun and for the monsoon rains. The streets are lined with old British colonial buildings that are now crumbling and covered with a black layer of grime. The streets and sidewalks are wide but broken and filled with potholes. The downtown streets are crammed with people walking, women selling things from trays balanced on their heads, vendors sitting along the sidewalks, and old fashioned buses stuffing people in like sardines. At night there are almost no street lights so it’s very dark, even though there are a lot of people still out and about and it’s a big city, the largest in Myanmar. Yesterday we visited Yangon’s biggest attraction, the Shwedegon Paya. It’s a massive golden Buddhist shrine which is bell shaped at the bottom and narrowing into the spire at the top. A monk in an orange robe approached me and asked me several questions, then led me around showing me various rituals they perform here. I figured since he was a monk he wouldn’t try to solicit money from me, but after showing me around he followed me begging for money and not just a little bit. He wanted $30! We were also hassled for “donations” several other times throughout the day and if you don’t give they turn on you.
Now for the interesting part: I’m writing this from a high-end internet cafe that uses proxy servers to bypass government internet censorship. Gmail, hotmail, CNN, BBC, and many other sites are all blocked. The government here is a dictatorship with total control over the people, and they are very unpopular. Forced labor, political repression and imprisonment of oppisition, and corruption are all present. Over twenty years ago elections were held but power was not handed over the rightfully elected leadership, instead the rightfully elected democracy champions were imprisoned. The most famous of these is Aung San Suu Kyi, the leader of the democracy party (NLD) who spent some 20 years under house arrest. Yesterday we walked the streets to her house which was adorned with banners for her NLD party.
Another thing about this country is the currency. They use both US dollars and their local currency, the kyat. There are no ATMs anywhere in the country and almost no one accepts credit cards so we’re carrying all of our cash for the entire stay. We heard reports that all US dollars had to be crisp like new, so we spent a long time trying to get crisp new US dollars before coming here. When we got here we were blown away. They don’t accept any US dollars with the slightest tear, mark, stamp, or even a fold. It has to be prestine. Also, the official government exhange rate is about 6.5 kyat per dollar, but this is FAR below market value so we had to exchange our money on the “black market” (meaning on the street) where they give you about 750-800 kyat per dollar. Unfortunately Marco exchange $100 for kyat on the street yesterday and they performed some sort of sleight of hand that none of us saw and he ended up getting only 48,000 kyat for $100 instead of the 80,000 he was suppose to get. He got ripped off. We went back looking for the guys but they were long gone. Fortunately we did exchange most of our money with better honest money changers, you just have to be careful.
Yangon street scene
Yangon, here you can see some of the crazy old vehicles they use
Near the Shwedagon Paya in Yangon, Myanmar
Me at the Shwedagon Paya
Another street scene in Yangon